No, I haven’t been posting in the last month. I’m returning to work this week and have been busy with getting re-certified to fly, spending multiple days in the Chinese consulate, etc. I’m also realizing that my blog is a bit scattered and not the best use of my (now) limited free time. I’m taking a little time off from blogging to figure out what my focus is, exactly. It feels a little scattered and I am coming to grips with the fact that my most popular posts are not particularly the ones I’m best equipped to write. So, I’m taking May off. Possibly June.
Feedback and suggestions are absolutely welcome.
A few weeks ago, TLo posted an entry about the Pulp Fashion exhibit. (Check out the post, the images are gorgeous.) When I read that the exhibit was at the Legion of Honor in San Francisco and it was exhibiting now, I invited my friend Kyle to come with. Kyle is an instructor at FIDM and a clothing designer as well. Having a professional’s clothing maker’s perspective made this exhibit more informative. Seeing her reaction to the skill and technique of artist Isabelle de Borchagrave made it more impressive.
All the costumes are made of paper.
From the Legion’s website:
Belgian artist Isabelle de Borchgrave is a painter by training, but textile and costume are her muses. Working in collaboration with leading costume historians and young fashion designers, de Borchgrave crafts a world of splendor from the simplest rag paper. Painting and manipulating the paper, she forms trompe l’oeil masterpieces of elaborate dresses inspired by rich depictions in early European painting or by iconic costumes in museum collections around the world. The Legion of Honor is the first American museum to dedicate an entire exhibition to the work of Isabelle de Borchgrave, although her creations have been widely displayed in Europe.
I snapped a couple of photos then was gently reprimanded by the guard. (Embarrassed to notice the “no photography” signs posted liberally at eye level.) Everything is unbelievably made of paper. Sheer lace is made with a fine gossamer. Huge gemstones and filigree settings. Corset laces and grommets. All of paper.
I had the overwhelming need to touch everything–something. It was like having an OCD moment where you just need to turn the bottle so the label is parallel to the back wall. The first room featured costumes, all in white. de Borchgrave created this collection to emphasize the “fluctuation of the fashionable silhouette.” The costumes flowed from era to era. You really could see the evolution of European dress without the distraction of color and pattern.
The amazing thing is that you forget that the outfits are completely constructed of paper. Kyle marvelled that the draping was impeccable–the dresses draped on the floor like cloth does. Between the recreations of Renaissance costume (there are no surviving Renaissance costumes in existence), the “wink at history” featuring iconic looks by Coco Chanel and Christian Dior, and the Bedouin exhibition tent of Madriano Fortuny of the 1911 Exposition des Arts Decoratifs; it’s a heady display of fascinating beauty that, frankly, overloaded my senses. My suggestion is to take all day to view this exhibit. Take a lunch break and have a picnic on the lawn. You’ll be able to take in more prettiness with a little respite in between.
Legion of Honor
February 5, 2011 - June 5, 2011
$15 adults, $12 seniors 65+, $11 youth 6–17 and college students with ID, and free for children under 6 and members. They offer a public transportation discount with proof (Clipper card or timely transfer.)
Terminal 2* in San Francisco International Airport opened today for flights. Formerly the terminal for international flights, it closed in 2000 when the new international terminal opened. It’s expected to be one of the greenest terminals in the nation and houses domestic American Airlines and Virgin America flights. It’s also estimated to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 1667 tons each year.
From Michael McCarron, Director Community Affairs at SFO:
Moreover, the design of the renovated terminal is a departure from the traditionally designed airport terminal in that it is customized for today’s modern traveler. Design features include club-like seating in the waiting areas, a food marketplace offering locally grown and produced food, hydration stations for filling water bottles, major works of public art, and a retail street with restaurants, stores, a wine bar and spa.
Terminal 2′s Hippie Brownie Points
(Paraphrased from SFO’s site.)
- Energy Efficiency – Energy efficient lighting and efficient machinery will reduce energy use and natural gas consumption.
- Water Efficiency – Uses reclaimed water for toilets and other uses throughout the airport. Also the new fixtures use 40% less water.
- Hydration Stations– You can fill up your own water bottles at hydration stations (formerly know as water fountains).
- Indoor Air Quality– “Displacement ventilation” system that introduces fresh, filtered, cool air into the rooms near waist-level, pushing the older, warmer air to rise to the exhaust points. It, apparently, uses 25% less energy to provide fresher air.
- Food Marketplace– The country’s first airport food marketplace that places an emphasis on mostly organic, locally grown and produced food.
- Modern Technology– Paperless ticketing systems.
- Old-Fashioned “Technology”– Open floor plan maximizes the ample ambient light’
- Zero Waste–Food vendors will use biodegradable tableware and source separate all food service wastes to composting facilities.
- Transportation– Terminal 2 will feature preferential parking for hybrid cars and a pedestrian bridge to AirTrain and BART.
- Sustainable Building Materials– Terrazzo flooring with recycled glass chips, recycled-content carpet, wall systems, bathroom tiles, ceiling tiles, furniture and innovative and efficient use of structural steel.
*I refuse to call it T2 as SFO’s marketing crew is pushing me to do.
Photos of Terminal 2 (I didn’t have the energy to go through security to get concourse photos.) View SFO’s official photos here.
“Brah, this is junk,” he said squinting at the pure, white powder. Untouched, it lay in soft, smooth mounds, with the exception of a lone pair of ski mobile tracks. Woody lifted the mirrored sunglasses from his red, chapped face, revealing the white sunglasses-shaped tan line that every ski patroller sported.
“Sixty-three days, brah,” he said simply, strapping into his skis.
“Sixty-three days until what?” I asked, stamping into my snowboard.
“Sixty-three days until you learn to surf, Nosebone,” Kai said, flicking the frozen septum piercing in my nose.
Sixty-three days later, I drove down a dirt road into San Onofre State Beach’s parking lot. Rock star parking lines the pavement, just a few steps from the beach.
San Onofre State Beach is technically within San Diego County but claimed by Orange County. It’s home to surfing legends Lorrin “Whitey” Harrison and Hobie Alter. San Onofre was also immortalized in the Beach Boy’s 1963 hit, “Surfin’ USA.”
Established in 1971 by Governor Ronald Reagan, San Onofre State Beach is separated into three areas: San Onofre Bluffs, San Mateo Campgrounds and San Onofre Surf Beach. Surf Beach has three distinct breaks: The Point, Old Man’s and Dogpatch. The windy bluffs, tidal wetlands and vegetation also keeps Surf Beach looking identical to what the missionaries saw 234 years ago. In 1776, Father Junipero Serra established Mission San Juan Capistrano spanning a smattering of coastal towns like San Clemente, San Onofre’s closest town. The beach is flanked by Pendelton Marine Corps Reserve and San Onofre Nuclear Generating Station. These seemingly disturbing facilities have allowed San Onofre to remain undisturbed for twenty coastal miles without threat of commercialization.
I passed by open tailgates looking for Kai and Woody. Strangers nod, smile and shaka. The shaka is a Hawaiian/surfer greeting with the pinky and thumb extended. The hand is shaken to say “aloha.”
“Hey, Nosebone! Ova heah,” I heard from between a dinged, lemon chiffon Volkswagen van and a white, lifted Hemi with two longboards in the back.
A picnic table groaned with the weight of trays loaded with kalua pork and macaroni salad. Mop-headed kids chased a Labrador wearing a neckerchief. My friends were in dripping boards shorts, their calves and biceps ringed in island art.
A pair of old men in flip flops and Hawaiian shirts played a ukelele and beat on a drum. The drummer belted out a rousing song in Hawaiian as three rows of men danced, bellowing refrains. The dancers were a mixed crew. Mostly seniors with silver hair and skin toasted for decades under the consistent California sun. A couple of kindergartners and their dads urging them along, “You know this dance, son.”
Old Man’s is called that for a reason. Easy consistent waves lets the old-timers ride their heavy, vintage balsa boards. It also provides a great classroom for teaching the grandkids to catch their first wave.
“Nosebone, this is Pretty Boy Pete, he’s gonna teach you to ride today,” Kai said pointing a beer bottle at a man with roasted brown skin and sun bleached, saltwater tousled hair. Pretty boy indeed. He flashed an even, white smile and shook my hand.
“You ever surf?” I shook my head. “No worries, yeah?”
“No worries.” We walked over to a small clearing in the sand, a no-fly zone even Hoku (the lab) didn’t bound into. Pretty Boy Pete sat me down in front of a surfboard.
“Catch,” he said, tossing something. I caught it. It’s a credit card.
“Scrape.” He knelt across from me and began to scrape the old wax from the board with another card. “We’re gonna scrape the old wax and apply some new. Wax off, wax on yeah?” he winked. “That way you get to know the board better.”
Once the grimy grey wax was scraped off like filings, he handed me a white bar of wax. The wax rubbed sticky bumps onto the board’s surface, hence the name StickyBumps. The warm smell of vanilla surrounded me and I started to feel like a surfer.
Surfing originated in the Polynesian Islands. As early as the 15th century, the people were known to enjoy he’e nalu (ancient Hawaiian for “wave sliding”). The sport was perfected in Hawai’i, with the ali’i (royalty and higher classes) establishing board shapers, prayers and special wood to be used in surfboards. Only the koa, ‘ulu and the wiliwili trees were allowed to be used for surfboards. Before construction, sacred rituals were performed to honor the tree’s offering. Ancient Hawaiians used four kinds of boards: the paipo (PA-ee-po), a 2-4′ body board, the omo (O-mo), an 8-12′ mid-sized board and the kiko`o (key-KOH-o), a 12-18′ board. The olo (OH-lo) was reserved for royalty and was 18-24′ long.
Nowadays, you can buy a good, factory made board. A hand-crafted surfboard is still sought out for stellar performance. The board I used was hand-shaped by legendary shaper, Dean Cleary. Cleary began shaping surfboards forty years ago in a shed on Sixth Street in Huntington Beach. He’s currently one of the few noted Americans who specialize in kneeboards. Most hand shapers custom make your board, working with your skill level, physical attributes and desires to make a board that becomes a part of you.
“Now, we’re gonna pop-up and paddle.” Still on land, not even close enough to feel the spray of the ocean, Pete had me pantomime paddling out, pushing up quickly to a standing position and feeling like a big dork.
“Good job,” he smiled. “Okay, some rules, then we ride. If you can’t follow the rules, you don’t need to surf, girl.” He listed each rule on his fingers peppered with words like “inside,” “break,” “peak” and “curl.”
- Don’t surf alone: Even expert surfers have been known to crack their head open.
- Give right of way: The person closest to the upcoming wave gets to ride it.
- Don’t drop in or snake a wave: No snaking around someone or jumping in front of them to steal the wave.
- Paddle behind: Don’t cut across someone riding a wave.
- Hang on to your board: Sometimes, it’s easier to let go and duck under. Don’t. You might injure someone.
We waded out to knee high. The water is icy but the warm sun soon negates the chill. Pete placed the longboard on the water. I strapped the leash to my ankle and lied on it, paddle position. Then he lied on top of the bottom half of my body. I looked back, stunned.
“Paddle,” commanded Pretty Boy Pete as if using a stranger’s tush as a pillow is an ordinary experience.
I paddled towards the horizon. Pete shouted instructions and advice. “Paddle through the wave if it’s too big to crest.” My arms burned from the exercise. Pete stopped us and slid off. I sat up and straddled the board, the wax comfortingly warm under my thighs. I looked back and saw that we were only 10 yards from the shore. Pete stood in the neck-high water. He pointed to various landmarks so I can get my bearings. He showed me how to join a line-up though we were far from the motley line-up of leather-skinned longboarders, tow-headed kids and even dogs curled up on the nose of a couple of boards.
“You can take this one!” he said, perking up. “Turn around!” I thrashed, managing to point the board toward the shore. I saw a small wave beginning to form a few yards behind me. “Paddle!”
I began to paddle. “Paddle, paddle, paddle, paddle!” I paddle as if sharks were trying to eat me. “Stand up!” I heard him yell as the swell lifted my surfboard. I popped up like I practiced on the beach. … And launched myself off the side of the board. I belly flopped into the salt water. The board tugged to reclaim me.
“How you?” Pete asked slipping into pidgin. “You wanna quit?” he asks looking at my face. ”Go have a beer. Chillax.”
“I wanna do it again,” I said. A snowboarder’s maxim states that if you fall, do it again immediately or you’ll be too scared to try it ever again. I knew it applied here, too.
“Alright,” he said, eyebrows raised and a smirk on his face. We paddled out, waited and caught the wave. He shouted directives. I popped-up, this time remembering my stance. The wave swelled and carried me. It felt like sliding across a highly polished floor in brand new socks but better. It felt like flying.
San Mateo Campgrounds
RV hookups, hot showers and a quick walk to the beach. Sleeps 8 per plot. Starts at $30-65 per night. Make reservations at Reserve America.
1-800-444-PARK (7275) or www.reserveamerica.com
Stunning ocean view and a great location. Sunday market for local flavor.
Summer rates: $175-375, studio or one-bedroom
Winter rates: $125-225, studio or one-bedroom
533 Avenida Victoria
San Clemente, CA 92672
Old Man’s tailgate party atmosphere encourages sharing food. If you bring shareable snacks, you’ll be sure to join the impromptu potlucks.
A local favorite, there’s a reason their tag line is “world’s best tacos since 1986.” Cheap, tasty and filling, Pedro’s provides fuel for a good day of surfing.
Open 7 am – 10 pm daily
2313 S. El Camino Real, San Clemente 92672
San Onofre State Beach
Call park for hours.
$15 per vehicle. $35-60 per night if you camp on the campgrounds.
830 Cristianitos Road
San Clemente, CA 92672
Surfboard wax in various scents and temperature scales.
Dean Cleary Shaper
Forty years of hand-cfrated surfboards at a reasonable price.
I tend to love the smaller airports. The car-to-gate time for small airports tend to be under twenty minutes; the vibe is chill and the staff is friendly.
That said, nothing beats a large airport for spectacular people watching, good food and amenities. My favorite large airport in the US is San Francisco International Airport (SFO). It’s also my home base since 2007.
Touted as the “gateway to the Pacific,” SFO is one of the world’s 30 busiest airports. SFO opened in 1927. In 2003, the long-awaited Bay Area Rapid Transit expansion finally connected SFO to the BART line. (In the ’90s, we had to take BART, walk to a bus terminal then take a bus to SFO. Not fun.)
Artwork: Thoughtful, interesting exhibits are strategically placed in SFO. Connecting corridors house a spectacular model plane exhibit, waiting lounges house displays of Japanese tea accoutrements. You’ll often see people slow down to take in the pretty.
Where: Exhibit Location Map
Inter-terminal connector: Nothing sucks worse than having to go through security again. I love that you can get from the International Terminal G gates (G-gates for United and most Star Alliance airlines) to Terminal 3 via a post-security corridor (United and American domestic, Air Canada). It’s airy, bright and filled with art and benches.
Where: Between Gate 75 (Terminal 3) and Gucci (International Terminal G)
Emporio Rulli: Hands down the best coffee in SFO. It’s the one place I am guaranteed a cappuccino with stiff foam, no added milk and espresso with rich crema on top.
Where: International Terminal, pre-scurity, Main Hall Arrivals Lobby, Main Hall North Food Court (near Boarding Area G) and Main Hall South Food Court (near Boarding Area A)
Freshen Up! & Baggage Storage: Long layover? Drop off your bags at baggage storage and take a quick shower at Freshen Up!
Where: International Terminal, Main Hall just past the escalators
Open 7 am- 11 pm
Standard shower $11 (20 minute shower includes soap and towel)
Deluxe shower $15 (30 minutes, includes shampoo, lotion, shower shoes, plush towel, upgraded soap and 20 minutes in a massage chair)
Discounts for flight crew.
Baggage storage prices vary but suitcases are about $10-20 per 24 hours.
BART: The Bay Area Rapid Transit station is in the International Terminal. Take BART into the city or connect to Cal Trans. It’s perfect for getting to your hotel or just to get out of the airport for a few hours. SF is only 30 minutes away.
Where: International Terminal Main Hall just past the Berman Reflection Room
Roundtrip adult fare to Powell Station: $16.20
Berman Reflection Room: Next to the BART station, this tranquil space is perfect to get away from the hubbub. There is no eating, sleeping or talking on cell phones so you can be assured some quiet time contemplating planes taxiing silently by.
Where: International Terminal Main Hall
The Buena Vista Cafe: If you didn’t get a chance to go to Buena Vista at the Fisherman’s Wharf, stop in and get a Irish coffee here. The atmosphere isn’t as divey and cool but the barkeeps are still old school and the drink is a classic. Food’s good. You can catch the game or people watch.
Where: Terminal 3, Boarding Area F near Gate 82, post-security
Kids’ Spot: It’s an interactive play station with weather related exhibits from the Exploratorium. Plenty of space and activities for the kids to burn up some energy (as long as some douchebag isn’t standing in the middle of it having an obnoxiously loud phone conversation).
Where: Terminal 2, Boarding Area D near Gates 54A and 58B, post-security and Terminal 3, Boarding Area F near Gate 87A, post-security
Easy waves, chill locals and absent sea creatures make these spots ideal for kooks (beginning surfers).
Old Man’s at San Onofre State Beach, San Onofre: Low, slow-breaking peaks and paternal locals make Old Man’s at San Onofre Beach a perfect spot to learn to surf. There’s always someone on a ukelele starting an impromptu hula session.
The Vibe: Tailgate luau
Fees: $15 per vehicle. $35-60 per night if you camp on the campgrounds.
Call park for hours.
830 Cristianitos Road
San Clemente, CA
Bolsa Chica State Beach, Huntington Beach: You may find yourself fishing and hiking rather than learning to surf at Bolsa Chica. The hiking and biking trail follows along the Ecological Reserve and is a favorite with bird watchers. Soft, easy surf provides easy waves to learn on. Afterward, catch grunions (sardine-like fish found only in Southern Cal) with your bare hands.
The Vibe: Eco-friendly
Fees: $15 per vehicle. $35-60 per night if you camp on the campgrounds.
Pacific Coast Highway between Golden West Street and Warner Avenue
Huntington Beach, CA
Doheny State Beach, Dana Point: It’s won Orange County Register’s Peoples Choice for Best Camping Site 17 years in a row. The campground sells out 7 months ahead for summer so reserve early. The waves are a mellow 2-3 feet with stronger swells about 100 yards north for intermediate surfers. The kid-friendly vibe makes this the best place for your kid’s first wave.
The Vibe: Baby’s first wave
Fees: $15 per vehicle. $35-60 per night if you camp on the campgrounds.
6:00 am-10 pm, daily, year-round
25300 Dana Point Harbor Drive
Dana Point, CA
Mondos Beach, Ventura, CA: Consistent rolling waves and a sparse line-up during the week make Mondos an ideal spot for beginners, stand-up paddlers and longboarders trying to master toes on the nose. It does get crowded on the weekends but parking is free.
The Vibe: The get-along gang
The entrance to Mondos isn’t marked and getting there is word-of-mouth: Take 101 past Ventura, bear left through tunnel. Zero out the odometer when you exit the tunnel and go 3.4 miles. There will be a clearing between two rows of beach houses. That’s the entrance.
First Point at Surfrider Beach, Malibu: First, Second and Third Points are surf spots that are a combination of Malibu Lagoon and Surfrider Beaches. Getting to the Points is easier if you park at Surfrider. First Point’s waist high swells are ideal for beginners. It tends to be crowded but the guy next to you in line-up could be either a celebrity or a dolphin.
The Vibe: Down-to-earth famous
Fees: $3-10 per vehicle
310-457-9701 (surf report)
8am – sunset, daily
23050 Pacific Coast Highway
All state beach information can be found at www.parks.ca.gov.
Make campground reservations at Reserve America.
1-800-444-PARK (7275) or www.reserveamerica.com
Surfline.com has live surf cam, wave and water quality reports and more
Between a weekend trip to Vegas where I forgot to take pictures and notes and a ginormous article due this week, I have not prepped any blogs for the week.
I’ll be back next week.
Here’s a pretty sparkly photo. It’s the Chandelier Bar in the Cosmopolitan Hotel. I’ve yet to drink in it but it produces an immediate, “OOooh pretty, sparkly,” reaction in me. We spent every night at Melissa’s favorite bar, the Vesper Bar. I have to admit, it was really nice to be able to stumble to the elevator and into bed for once.
The current events in Japan really got me thinking about being prepared for emergency situations. Plus, how often do you think about emergencies when you’re planning a vacation abroad? So what should you do in case you get ill or injured while overseas?
- Before you leave home, contact your health insurance provider to find out what kind of coverage you will have overseas. Also, it’s a good idea to get their 24-hour hotline number and service providers in your destination.
- If your insurance doesn’t provide coverage abroad or you don’t have insurance, you can buy short-term health insurance. You can buy it through a travel insurance company or, separately, through a travel medical insurance. You can also opt to get medical evacuation coverage. Short-term insurance is reasonable—it tends to cost a few bucks a day if you’re young and healthy.
- Medicare/Medicaid doesn’t cover you overseas. AARP partners with MedjetAssist to provide health insurance while abroad.
- Carry a full supply of your medication in the original bottle.
- If you have a pre-existing condition, carry a letter from your doctor explaining it and current treatment. Also include your doctor’s phone number in case you need to reach them.
- Check for required and recommended vaccinations before you go.
- Should you require medical care, the local US embassy will have information about getting care and emergency assistance.
Before I got a smartphone, I would regularly call friends for directions. Sharon was my LA OnStar, Artlyn was for San Francisco, Melissa was for Orange County, the Inland Empire and obscure hole-in-the-wall restaurants I loved but could never remember how to get to.
I still use my phone for that information; I just get to hide my complete lack of direction now. There are tons of apps for travel these days.
The following are my favorites specifically for road trips. Since I have an Android phone, I listed Android apps.
- AAA Roadside AAA uses GPS on your mobile device to send roadside assistance. Receive instant confirmation that info you sent to AAA is received. Also get local info on AAA approved auto repair and discount providers.
- GasBuddy Find the cheapest gas nearby. Locate the gas stations near you and check out their prices.
- Happy Hours Not that I’m advocating drinking and driving, but find great deals on nearby bars and restaurants with happy hour specials.
- Acar Track gas mileage, fill-ups, maintenance and other expenses for your car.
- Picplz Share camera phone photos. You can add effects. Uploading is easy on most social networking sites.
- Toilet/Bathroom Finder Odd name but find the nearest public bathroom.
- SpeedView It uses GPS to show your current, maximum and average speed. Also tracks direction, total distance and time traveled.
- Trapster Get alerts as you approach police speed traps, traffic cameras, checkpoints and accidents.
- The Weather Channel Weather for wherever you are.
- Hotels The “hotels by me” feature uses GPS to find local hotels. They book directly for a better rate.
Happy road tripping!